Updating RAM on a Mac


This is a short update from the previous post. As a followup from the previous post I stated the next update on my Mac would be RAM. Took about 10 minutes and my computer recognized the update immediately. Some people say updates on a Mac are not possible, but they are!
Give it a try. Upgrades give more life and faster speed to your computer.
Make sure you have backups for your hard drive.
Upgrading MacBook Pro Hard Drive


© Aspen Mountain Photography & Lynn Marchant
After using PC’s for years, I purchased my first Mac in February 2008. The Mac is a 15″ MacBook Pro. I have enjoyed using a Mac and plan on staying with Macs. After time, my Mac’s hard drive was getting full. It still worked great, just needed more space, even after storing the large Raw photography files on external hard drives.
After some research, I found Apple does not do upgrades, MacDocs (and other companies do upgrades), parts for Macs are available online and locally, and if you have a warranty on your Mac, doing any upgrades will void the warranty.
The original hard drive was a 200 GB 5400 drive. The one I wanted to replace it with was a 500 GB 7200 hard drive. My cost of the hard drive was $69.00. Cost of having someone else do the installation and transfer of information was close to $300.00. I have upgraded many PC’s, so I decided to do the upgrade myself.
Information that was helpful on the web:
Link to a video showing how to take apart the lap top and install the new drive: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9r1UAVq9AU&NR=1
Restoring data with Time Machine: http://gizmodo.com/333319/the-secret-of-the-time-machine+assisted-hard-drive-swap
Apple has information on restoring a drive with a back up from a Time Capsule with Time Machine: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1177
The tools needed, as mentioned on the video are: Torx T6, 00 Phillips screw driver, and a plastic or nylon pry tool. I bought my tools at Sears (I have always liked Craftsman tools). The “pry tool” I used was out of my kids plastic doctor set.
The upgrade went well. I now have a bigger, faster hard drive in my lap top. The only glitch in restoring the data was with my Aperture libraries. The previews came out blurry. In order to restore them to their sharp originals, I had to click on each photo individually to reconnect the file with the external hard drive. I have thousands of photos. This was going to take awhile.
I found there is an Aperture Library First Aid command to help fix files in Aperture. In order to open the Aperture Library First Aid help, hold down the command and option keys while opening Aperture. When Aperture opens you will see a dialog box giving three choices: Repair Permissions; Repair Database; and Rebuild Database. I used the “Repair Database” and it connected the external drive with my file previews on my lap top. They were all clear and sharp again!
The new drive is a Western Digital Scorpio 500 GB 7200 (Black). It had good reviews online. It has worked great the last three weeks it has been installed. Hope it makes it at least the three years the original lasted.
Next: Upgrade RAM.
Note: The lily pad and flower are from my back yard pond.
Post Processing: Computers and Software


© Aspen Mountain Photography
Post processing is working on the photograph on a computer after the making of the photo. I do post processing on every photograph I make.
People are often not sure if changing operating systems, PC vs Mac, or software on these computers will make the most of their photographs. The end result is what counts, and how you like to work.
I started out using a Windows computer and then moved to a Mac. My first photo editing software program was Photoshop Elements. Photoshop Elements is a great photography software program for the money. The above photograph was post processed on a windows machine and edited with Photoshop Elements.
© Aspen Mountain Photography
This photograph was post processed on a Mac with Aperture. My decision to go to a Mac was based on research on multimedia computers and editing software for photographs.
I learned from using Photoshop Elements that while it is great program for the money, I didn’t like the interface that much. When I wanted to organize, edit, or whatever, I always had to move to a different module. I wanted a program that would let me do whatever I wanted in one place in the program. I found Aperture, made by Apple, would let me do this. Aperture only runs on Macs, so my decision to go to a Mac was influenced by the software available for a mac.
I have never regretted going to a Mac, however, it doesn’t mean everyone needs to. Serious photographers typically use Aperture, made by Apple, or Light Room, made by Adobe, as their editing programs. Both have free 30 day trials.
I also use Photoshop (full program, not Elements), although 90% of my editing is done with Aperture only.
Aperture and Light Room are great programs for editing and organizing your photographs. Do not forget to back up you photos, too.
Focus


© Aspen Mountain Photography
The other day I told my daughter she needed to focus on her homework. This article isn’t about that kind of focus. This post is about the kinds of focusing modes your camera may have.
My camera has three focusing modes. There is a lever on the front of my camera that will go to S, C, or M. “S” stand for Single-servo auto focus, “C” stands for Continuous-servo auto focus, and “M” stands for Manual focus.
S is usually where I keep my focusing mode. When the shutter release button in pressed down half-way the camera focuses and will keep that focus until the shot is taken or the shutter release button is released.
The C focusing mode will change as a subject moves. I used this mode to shoot the Swainson’s Hawk as it flew through the air squawking at me. I must have been close to the hawk’s nest.
M is for manual. The focusing ring on the lens is used to manually focus on the subject.
Read your manual, you may find your camera does cool stuff you didn’t know about.
Cameras and Such


Skip Cohen, (former president of Hasselblad) when asked what camera he uses replies with, “My eyes.”
When a person asks a photographer what camera he or she uses or recommends, it is not that simple to answer. The simple answer would be to buy the best camera your budget will allow. The person purchasing the camera will not usually get the same results as the seasoned, talented photographer.
Photographers may sound facetious when talking about cameras and gear. I don’t mean to, but may sound somewhat facetious myself. Telling someone which camera to buy doesn’t take into consideration the time, skill, and effort of the photographer.
Ansel Adams said, “Don’t take pictures, make pictures.”
A lot goes into a great picture: the skill of the photographer, the camera, the lenses (make a bigger difference than the camera), the post processing (computer software) and proficiency of using the software, and other gear used to get a great shot.
When buying a camera buy the best camera you can afford. Go to a local camera store (I like Pictureline in Salt Lake) and try different cameras. Read the camera manual, practice, and spend time learning about photography technique.
Book Review: On Camera Flash Techniques


The full name of the book is On Camera Flash Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photography. The book is by Neil van Niekerk. This is a great book. It is, if not my favorite, one of my favorite books on photography.
I read and study photography all the time. I learn from others and practice new things as well.
The readers of this book will benefit the most by owning an external flash that can be aimed in different directions. Neil discusses white balance, gels on the flash, manual exposure, and having complete control over the exposure.
Neil uses a lot of flash, but he goes to great efforts not to make his photos look like flash is used. Especially not making the subject look like he or she was blasted with a flash aimed directly at the subject’s face. Neil doesn’t like shadows in the background from his flash and likes soft, directional light.
Neil will bounce his flash behind, to either side, but rarely, rarely straight at the subject. He will bounce his flash off a wall, windows, ceiling, reflector, or whatever else he can find to get soft, flattering light.
I took the above photograph at a nearby park. The young lady was in the shade without any direct light shining on her. I aimed my flash to my left at a gold/silver reflector my assistant (my son Josh) was holding. The bounced flash looks similar to what the evening sun going down would look. The light is soft, warm, and gives a little shadow on her face for some depth.
Many well known photographers are developing their own photography products and selling them. (My wife says this is where the real money is, because photography equipment costs a lot of money.) Neils talks about his favorite “light modifier” in his book. There are quite a few light modifiers on the market. They spread out and soften the light from a flash or other light or otherwise shape the light. Neil’s favorite light modifier is made from a sheet of black foam and is held on by one of his daughter’s hair bands. It costs less than $2.00. This is a great buy when it comes to photography equipment.
Neil van Niekerk has a website/blog he calls planetneil.com with more information on photography.
I like to think of this book as technique over gadgets. This book is great to learn about photography.
Batteries, Batteries, Batteries


Swainson's Hawk © Lynn Marchant
Everything is powered by batteries now, from inexpensive toys to high priced camera equipment.
I have an underwater dive light that takes 8 C batteries. Several years ago I bought rechargeable batteries for it. The rechargeable batteries saved on new battery cost, however are not very convenient. These rechargeable batteries won’t keep a charge for longer than about a month. The charger charges the batteries for 5 hours, no matter what the condition of the batteries. The charger holds 4 batteries, so for 8 batteries this requires 10 hours of charging time, not very convenient.
Recent technological advances in rechargeable batteries have been a great improvement. I like the rechargeable batteries for cameras. I carry a spare charged battery for my Nikon camera.
My Nikon SB-800 Speedlight holds 5 AA batteries and the battery pack for it holds an additional 6 AA batteries. Before a shoot I would faithfully change all 11 AA batteries. That is a lot of batteries.
Not long ago I discovered Eneloop rechargeable batteries and the Powerex MH-C204W fast charger. The batteries will keep 85% of their charge for a year. The charger analyzes how much charge the batteries need, and charges accordingly. It takes very little time to top off the batteries with the charger. I carry spare alkaline batteries just in case, but haven’t had to use them as yet.
Be green — try some rechargeable batteries. I recommend Eneloop batteries and the Powerex MH-C204W charger.
Isn’t technology great!
Black and White with a Little Color


Photography special effects are fun to do on the computer, as long as they aren’t overdone. It is a matter of individual preference of what is considered overdone, though.
Occasionally someone will ask how to make a black and white photograph with part of the picture in color. Just like everything else on a computer, there are more ways than one to get the same result.
The software I use for editing photos is Aperture and Photoshop. I do some editing to every photo I take. (In a future post I will talk about software and computers.)
I have done the “black and white with a little color” photos a couple of different ways. One way is to create copy of the original color photo in Aperture, then convert the copy to black and white. Then send the color and black and white photos to Photoshop and combine them into one photo with the black and white photo as the top layer, and the color photo as the bottom layer. Erase the top layer, leaving the color showing through where desired.
The photo of the bride above was done this way: Send the color photo from Aperture to Photoshop, convert it to black and white, then, using the History Brush Tool erase the “history” (which is the black and white conversion) showing color where desired. Then in Aperture I increased the contrast, shadows, highlights, and the yellow and green saturation (for the eyes).
May seem a little difficult, but isn’t that bad. Give it a try.
Be Ready


I have been up Big cottonwood Canyon many, many times over the years. Yesterday my family and I went up the canyon and we saw an animal I had never seen before there. We saw a badger trying to cross the road.
I got in between the badger and the road two or three times trying to persuade him not to cross. He seemed determined. After I shot a few pictures of him we went to our destination. When we went back down the canyon the badger was not in sight, so he either made it across the road or changed his mind.
This post is to encourage two thoughts:
The first is to always be ready. My camera equipment was ready. Except for a quick lens change to a longer lens everything was in working order. Batteries were charged, there was space on the memory card, and the camera equipment was accessible. I had thought about not bringing my camera at all since we weren’t going to be gone long.
The next thought is there are many great things to make pictures of. Even if the location is close to you. Many people think the only real shots are in national parks or far away places. The technique, perspective, subject, and lighting can make what seems ordinary not ordinary.
Camera Straps


I have never liked the camera straps that come with a camera. One reason is they are not as comfortable and usable as I would like. The other reason is the upper end cameras have the name of the manufacturer on them and say, “Come and steal me.”
I used a heavy duty neoprene strap with my trusty Pentax ME Super SE for years. It worked well for me.
There are a few more options out there now. These suggestions are more for the DSLR cameras.
I used an UPstrap for a few years that worked well. The little nubs on the strap helped to keep the camera on my shoulder very well.
My camera strap of choice now is a Black Rapid strap. The model I use is the RS-7. At first look the Black Rapid straps may look strange. There is a fitting that screws into the tripod mount of your camera. The camera hangs across your body. The strap goes on your left shoulder and the camera hangs upside down on your right side.
When using a tripod the fitting must be unscrewed, which doesn’t take much time or effort. The main thing I like about the strap is I can leave it hanging on me and let go, do other things, and my camera is always ready hanging on my right hip. When I shoot weddings my hand gets tired holding onto the camera all day and night. Now with the Black Rapid I can let go.
Try a new strap. Especially check out the UPstraps and the Black Rapid Straps.
Book Review: Drive


Sweetwater River near Martin's Cove in Wyoming
Just finished reading a book called “Drive: The Surprising Truth About What Motivates Us” by Daniel H. Pink. This is a great book.
This book is not about photography, but could be indirectly related. Pink asks in his book “What get’s you up in the morning and keeps you up at night?” He also says if you have a job that is routine you could be easily replaced by a computer or technology.
At the end of the book Pink gives a summary of what people need to make them the best at what they do: 1) Autonomy—the desire to direct our own lives; 2) Mastery—the urge to get better and better at something that matters; and 3) Purpose—the yearning to do what we do in the service of something larger than ourselves.
Could change the way you think about motivation and might encourage you to do something you have always wanted to do — such as photography.